Friday, 27 December 2019

Peninsular Spanish in 6mm

To complement my British Peninsular units I am mustering some Spanish and Portuguese units.  Actually, the word 'some' is a bit of a misnomer since the unpainted lead I got recently from Baccus is anything but ! Anyway, this week I got eight Spanish infantry stands off the painting desk, just shy of a hundred figures, representing the 7th 'Zamora' line regiment with black facings and the 8th 'Soria' regiment with purple facings. I am not aiming for any particular historical scenario so I am choosing units at my whim.  Unfortunately Spanish army organisation was quite chaotic between 1805 and 1812 and OOB's are rarely complete and accurate so it is quite useless to invest too much time in researching in too much detail as very often there is none to be found ! I am mostly using Steven Thomas's excellent site at which contains a wealth of information on Spanish army uniforms and organisation during the French invasion and the Peninsular War.

As usual, units are based for Age of Eagles on bases 3/4"frontage by 1" depth with twelve figures to a stand.  Baccus come in strips of four so they fit in almost exactly to one base frontage. 
There were nominally three battalions per regiment in 1808 but there was no such thing in real life and no more than two would actually see the field.  The first battalion would have two grenadier companies which would sometimes be hived off (as per the Austrian model) into separate units and the rest of the battalion would then join other fusilier units orphaned of their grenadiers into ad hoc formations.  To mirror this as much as I could I put one stand of grenadiers for every three of fusiliers - this should give me the ability to muster the grenadier stands separately if necessary. The figures shown wear the 1802 / 1805 model uniform with bicornes and white jackets in regimental facing colours while drummers wear blue jackets piped in red. Officers carry a crimson sash, presumably to impress the senoritas !

Apart from the regular units there was a plethora of irregular militia and guerilla units, mostly in civilian clothes or brown jackets.  Information on such units is sparse, however, and honestly it is doubtful how useful such units would be on the wargames table so I am not sure if it is worth going into much depth in this area.
Units in line - 'Zamora' to left and 'Soria' to right
Units in Supported Line - 'Soria' in front and 'Zamora' to the rear
 Each regiment carried a king's colour (foreground) together with battalion / regimental flags

Wednesday, 25 December 2019

A short Christmas post

Just a short post to wish you all a merry Christmas and a great new year. I know it’s kind of cliche’ but there you go......

Oh, and happy gaming and painting throughout 2020.

Keep well eveybody and God bless. Thank you all for your readership, comments and support.

Monday, 16 December 2019

Baccus 6mm British Peninsular Army

These past few weeks I have been mustering a 6mm British Peninsular army from Baccus.  Painting sessions have not been too regular but I am finally in a position to field a small army for Age of Eagles (AoE in short). I managed 54 infantry stands, eight artillery batteries, and 16 cavalry stands.  At AoE's scale of 360 infantry and 180 cavalry per stand, this would translate into a small army of 19,440 infantry, 2,880 cavalry, and 48 guns - each battery having 6 guns. In terms of figures, each stand contains 8 infantry figures and 3 cavalry figures, so with the artillery that's in the region of 500 figures, all told.

True to form, Baccus make very detailed napoleonic 6mm figures - it's amazing how they manage to fit in so much detail in such small figures - so hats off to Peter and his team for the quality of their product. It is a shame that they are pretty much larger than Heroics and Ros so they are not really compatible but to be honest this lack of compatibility doesn't show that much once the figures are on table. 

Although AoE is brigade level and doesn't really go into the nitty gritty of lower organisation, I still opted to organise the troops into battalions (two stands = 720 men), with four stands to a regiment at 1,440 men.  I made this choice mainly because of the various facing colours which distinguish the different regiments and their regimental flags. The result was a lovely array of coloured regimental standards accompanied by their respective King's Colours.

I staged a few photographs to give an idea of the finished figures.  There's still quite a pile to finish as well as a lot of Spanish and Portuguese to complement the Brits.  Maybe they will feature in a future post.  For the moment, however, here are the Brits that I've managed up to now, stovepipes and all.

Tuesday, 29 October 2019

Basement Gaming Room complete

I have finally gotten around to finishing my gaming room - it's been more than a year since I posted how my room was progressing and now I can finally say that it is well nigh complete.  That's the way we work things out here in the Med - slow and easy!

Anyway, I put in an 8' x 6' (4.20m x 1.80m) table which should be enough for most games in my preferred 6mm scale, even though there will always be the occasional scenario which requires even more space.  In such case I have enough space in the room to extend the table but for the moment an 8' x 6' will do.  I have the table covered in Kallistra hex terrain and am particularly pleased how their half hexes cover all around the edges to give the table a neat, complete look.

I fitted a few frames, two of which are really 1,500 piece jigsaw puzzles glued onto backing board and then framed.  Ages ago I got a Confederate Stars 'n Bars from a local camping shop (God knows what it has to do with camping!) which I pulled out of storage, had it washed by my better half and put on display at one end of the table. I also put in some old hifi equipment that I had lying around - a radio, amplifier and analogue turntable - after suitably having the lot reconditioned and cleaned. I don't mind having music going on at (very) low volume in the background. At the further end of the room I set up a bench to do my occasional airbrushing work.  It also doubles up as a workbench with some storage underneath. In future I hope to utilise the space beneath the table itself for even more storage as I don't feel I have enough at the moment. Before next summer I plan to put in an A/C unit or it would become unbearable down in the basement during the summer months. 

All that's left now is to start pushing tin and roll them dice......

The completed room with workbench at the far end. The two large frames at centre are jigsaw puzzles.  My 6mm collection is in the two cabinets on right. Still a lot of space to fill up in there !
From another angle showing hifi cabinet used for storage and display of some old diecast models.

Friday, 20 September 2019

My take on painting medieval heraldry

I was truly pleasantly surprised to receive so many positive comments on my last blog post for which I thank you all once again.  Most of your comments were appreciative of the heraldic designs on my models and this set me thinking about posting a blow-by-blow painting sequence in the hope that it might come in somehow useful to fellow modellers / gamers. I hasten to add that this is the method I have adopted and prefer but others might have their own different methods and I am by no means suggesting that this is better than any other method used.So here's my tuppence on this subject.

All colours quoted are Vallejo acrylics.

First of all, I identify a heraldic design to be painted.  Google usually comes in very handy here and for this particular case I chose one of the various rampant eagle designs available online. Having visualized the final colour scheme of a white eagle on a blue background in my head, I set off to clean the figure and apply black undercoat. The finished figure will be in Ultramarine so I applied a base of Dark Prussian Blue. The eagle will be painted directly on to this base so for starters a stick figure is sketched in German Camouflage Beige (Stone Grey works just as well) just to get the proportions and dimensions right.  Unfortunately I neglected to take a picture of this step but I made a mental note to take one when painting the shield so that I can convey the idea.

First brushstrokes - the rough stick figure gives an indication of position and proportion 
Once I'm happy with the positions and proportions I proceed to make my first full rough sketch, again in German Camouflage Beige which will end up looking something like this:

The stick figures have been fleshed for the first full sketch

The just-started figure against the specimen eagle design

Now is the time to start detailing. Rough edges are evened out using the backing Dark Prussian Blue as well as touching up with the German Camouflage Beige.  This is maybe the most tedious part of the process because it involves a lot of to-ing and fro-ing between the two colours, but it is also the most important since it will have a determining effect on the final result. Once I'm happy I paint the beige over using Sky Grey but being careful not to occult the underlying beige colour completely especially where the wings connect to the outlying feathers or where the legs join the body and tail. I tend to dilute the colour so that some beige will show through as I find this gives depth to the final design.

Sky Grey coat over beige base with some beige showing through

The final layer in white is now applied, again taking care not to paint too much over the grey. The narrow 'secondary' feathers extending outwards from the wings are left in grey so as not to give them prominence over the thicker 'main' feathers. Only slight highlighting touches in white are applied in the tail design and claws - leaving gaps showing the darker base colours to give depth and pop things out. This method is also applied to the wing feathers - applying the white only to the outer edges highlights the curvature in the wing shape.

The rampant eagles are now ready, having been highlighted in white. A border in Burnt Red has been added to the bottom border of the bard.
Once the eagles are complete the first layer of Ultramarine is laid on. Here I take care to get as close as possible but not into contact with the eagle design, leaving a razor thin outline of Dark Prussian Blue barely visible around the eagle.  This is extremely important since the dark outline is what makes it pop. Care has to especially be taken around the feathers, claws, and elaborate tail design. The first coat of Ultramarine will look something like this:

Once this stage is complete things become much easier as now it is only a matter of finishing off the Ultramarine bard with darker shades and highlights taking care not to encroach on the eagle design. 

The mount as advanced work in progress

The same principles are applied to the jupon and shield. The former is quite tight in space but this can be turned to advantage since you can do away with a lot of detail and giving a rough overall idea is usually enough.  The shield is much larger and visible so all the detail will need to be applied.

The final touch to the eagle design is a Light Orange beak as well as Vermillion tongue and talons. Finally the model is varnished in Satin Finish. And this is the completed figure:

Finally I think it's only fair to say that I am fully dependent on my trusty Optivisor for all my painting and use a variety of brush sizes but mostly 3/0, 2/0, and 1. I really hope someone might find this useful and really look forward to any comments, tips and suggestions you might have.